We love it. The first week is with the wife and the second I'm staying on for another week for mountain photography and hiking.
Definitely need a car to get around (only need a small one for mountain roads and parking) to free yourself from tours and public transport (they're are buses but restricted numbers) otherwise you'll be restricted. Parking is generally easy - especially in Funchal centre (multi storey car parks) and cheap (about €1 an hour). Though they're is Bolt and Uber if you prefer.
Not a place if you have mobility issues as even in upper Funchal the roads can have a 30 degree incline !
Whale watching is popular - nice catamarans.
Food is excellent everywhere. And cheap compared to the UK.
Plenty to see and do for a week and if you hike then there are hundreds of mountain hikes to keep you occupied for months (the majority are mostly lateral but a few have huge incline / declines so check the trail info carefully).
Return flights are quite cheap but hotels seem to be above average. We're in an adults only hotel costing about €230 a night for a small suite. Probably more at Xmas!
A couple I sat next to on the flight over were on their 25th visit! A guy in a photography forum came here and stayed for 8 years!
I'll be putting photos up on my IG over the next few weeks.
Highly recommend.
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